Assembly

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Electronics

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Software

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OVERVIEW

So, you have decided to build a robot? Cool beans, we would love to help. After a quick download and a lot of printing, you will be ready to build your very own MAKI. The following guide will cover recommended tools, the BOM, electrical wiring, servo configuration, Pi setup, assembly, and software setup. At this time, we only cover ARC setup for MAKI edu, but we are working on future ROS support.

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TOOLS

Micro USB Cable
SD Card Reader
HDMI Display
HDMI Cable
Keyboard/Mouse
Heat Gun
Shrink Tubing
Solder
Soldering Iron
Phillips Screwdriver
M3 Screwdriver
Cable Zip Ties

There are many tools which will be required to complete this project. In addition to the tools pictured below, a 3D Printer and Windows PC are necessary to create and operate a MAKI robot running ARC. 

The following tools are not required, but recommended. 

 
 

WIRING

The following steps document how to connect cables, 2-pin connectors, the DC power jack, the rocker switch, the 4-pin connector, the voltage regulator, as well as where to solder the headers onto the OpenCM9.04 board. The connectors are optional in many cases. While connectors make assembling/disassembling a bit easier, they also add extra parts to troubleshoot if you have a power issue later.

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Step 1 - Splice one 2-pin connector with two 2-pin connectors. Optionally, use a male connector for the main 2-pin connector and female connectors for the other two. 

Step 2 - Connect a two pin connector to the DC power jack. Connect the positive cable to the short pin. Be sure to verify that the connector can fit through the power jack hole in the base. Optionally, you can use a different style of connector to make connectors easier to identify later.

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Step 3 - Connect both negative cables from each 2-pin connector to each pin on the rocker switch. Next, connect the two positive cables together. One 2-pin connector should match the main 2-pin connector from Step 1 and the other should match the 2-pin connector from Step 2. 

Step 4 - Splice together two lengths of wire to both the negative and positive cables of a 2-pin connector. Solder those four wires to each pin of a 4-pin connector. The 2-pin connector will have to match one of the two spliced 2-pin connectors from Step 1. 

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Step 5 - Solder a 2-pin connector to the 5V USB voltage regulator. The 2-pin connector will have to match one of the spliced 2-pin connectors from Step 1.

Step 6 - Solder the 4-pin header (to power), X3P header(s) and power switch (optional) to the OpenCM9.04 board. If you used a female 4-pin connector in Step 4, use a male 4-pin header in this step. OpenCM9.04 Manual - Powering

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SERVO SETUP

MAKI uses Dynamixel servos from Robotis, a leading manufacturer of advanced robot servos. Dynamixel servos connect via daisy chain and require separate ID's to operate. Each servo ships from the factory with it's ID number set to 0, so we will have to connect and configure each servo separately. 

 

Step 1 - Connect the power supply, SMPS2Dynamixel, X3P-Convertable Cable, one XL430 servo, X3P Cable, U2D2 and micro

USB cable.

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Step 2 - Next we will assign ID's and set angle limits for each servo. 

 

Download and install Dynamixel Wizard.

After installing, connect the USB cable to your PC and launch Dynamixel Wizard. Select "Options" and select, protocols 1.0 and 2.0 under "Select protocol to scan." Also select the correct port. Under "Select baudrate to scan," select "57600 bps" and "1000000 bps." To save scanning time, and because our robot only uses six servos; you can also set the ID range to scan, to a range of 0 - 10 (or so). Select "Okay" to close the "Options" window. Click "Scan" to find the connected servo.

Step 3 - Set the ID, Baud Rate, Max Position Limit and Min Position Limit for each servo (one servo connected at a time). 

ID 1 Neck Rotate
ID 1 Neck Rotate

ID 2 Neck Tilt
ID 2 Neck Tilt

ID 6 Eyelid Right
ID 6 Eyelid Right

ID 1 Neck Rotate
ID 1 Neck Rotate

1/6

It is also recommended that you connect the OpenCM9.04 board to your PC via micro USB cable and update the firmware using Dynamixel Wizard or R+ Manager. 

Download and install R+ Manager.

 

THREADED HEATSET INSERTS

Adding threaded heatset inserts to your 3D printed parts increases their durability and allows you to replace parts in assemblies without fear of stripping 3D printed holes when tightening screws/bolts. MAKI edu uses M3-0.5 threaded heatset inserts which are installed with a soldering iron and heatset install tip. Here is a how to guide by Joshua Vasquez on using heatset inserts.

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2 x Rear Head Mount 2 L

8 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

2 x Eye 1

2 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Neck 2 and Neck Servo Mount

8 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Eye Servo Mount, Eye UD Mount 1, and Eye Pitch Arm

2 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Rear Head Mount

18 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Eye Servo Mount and Eyelid Servo Control Arm R

3 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Neck Cover Front

4 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Eyelid Servo Control Arm L

1 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Camera Mount

1 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Lower Mount Eyes

2 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Top Eye Lid L and Eyelid Control Arm L

2 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Top Eye Lid R and Eyelid Control Arm R

2 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Torso Base Mount 2

15 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

AIY Microphone Mount 1

4 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Face 1

4 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

Lower Head 1

8 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

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Base Top 1 and Base Bttm 1

10 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

2 x Ear 1

8 x Threaded Heatset Inserts

 
 

ASSEMBLY NECK

The following section will cover the Neck Assembly.

 

Tips - Each servo should already be configured before proceeding. Different 3D printers and materials produce different tolerances and finishes. It is a good idea to check the fit before your final assembly. It maybe required to sand some parts for the best fit. Deburring tools are also useful for creating smooth rotation between two 3D printed parts. Zero servos before assembling

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Step 1

 

Neck Cover 1 - Neck Servo Mount - 2x Neck Spacers - XL430 Servo (ID 1) - X3P Cable - X3P (Convertible) Cable

 

Tips: It is possible to use 3D printed parts for the two Neck Spaces, but for best results, laser cut or CNC the Neck Spacers from a material like Delrin or Acetal Copolymer.

Step 2

Neck 1 - XL430 Servo (ID 2) - X3P Cable

 

Tips: After removing the four screws located on the back of the servo, insert the four spacers (included with the servo) into the servo before attaching it to Neck 1. 

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Step 3

Assembly from Step 1 - Assembly from Step 2 - Neck 2 - Raspberry Pi Ribbon Cable

 

Tips: Carefully run the cables on each side of the servo before assembling. The ribbon cable should be placed on the left side of the servo (if facing servo).

Step 4

Assembly from Step 3 - Neck Head Mount L

 

Tips: Depending on your 3D printer and material, it maybe necessary to tap the four holes in Neck Head Mount L. Tap the holes to avoid stripping any bolts. 

 

ASSEMBLY EYES

The following section will cover the Eye Assembly.

 

Tips - Each servo should already be configured before proceeding. Different 3D printers and materials produce different tolerances and finishes. It is a good idea to check the fit before your final assembly. It maybe required to sand some parts for the best fit. Deburring tools are also useful for creating smooth rotation between two 3D printed parts.

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Step 5

Top Eyelid R - Eyelid Horn 1 R - Lever Hub - Eyelid Control Arm R

 

Tips: Depending on your 3D printer and material, it maybe necessary to sand and/or deburr the points of contact in this assembly.

Step 6

Top Eyelid L - Eyelid Horn 1 L - Lever Hub - Eyelid Control Arm L

Tips: Depending on your 3D printer and material, it maybe necessary to sand and/or deburr the points of contact in this assembly.

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ASSEMBLY - HEAD - Part 2

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Step 7

Eyes Top Mount - XL430 servo (ID 4)

 

Tips: After removing the four screws located on the back of the servo, insert the four spacers (included with the servo) into the servo before attaching it to Eyes Top Mount.

Step 8

Eyes LR Horn

Tips: Remove any support material from the hole seat. The head of the bolt should sit flush with the printed part's surface.

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Step 9

Eye Servo Mount - XL430 servo (ID 5) - Eyelid Servo Control Arm L - Eye UD Mount 1 - X3P Cable

 

Tips: After removing the four screws located on the back of the servo, insert the four spacers (included with the servo) into the servo before attaching it to Eye Servo Mount.

Step 10

Assembly from Step 9 - Eyes UD Lever - Lever Hub

Tips: Depending on your 3D printer and material, it maybe necessary to sand and/or deburr the points of contact in this assembly.

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Step 11

Eye Servo Mount - XL430 servo (ID 6) - Eyelid Servo Control Arm R - 2x X3P Cables

 

Tips: After removing the four screws located on the back of the servo, insert the four spacers (included with the servo) into the servo before attaching it to Eye Servo Mount.

Step 12

Assembly from Step 7 - Assembly from Step 8

Tips: Do not overtighten the bolts in the servo horn. After attaching the Eyes LR Horn, gently rotate left and right to make sure the horn moves freely.

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ASSEMBLY - HEAD - Part 2